Le Mont-Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Château d'Ussé, Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, Bléré

August 5

We joined M Tizot in his large manor house for breakfast, included in our accommodation. He was formerly a fireman west of Juilley, later in some type of rules enforcement position. An English couple with their 2 young children, Oscar and Olivia, were already in progress at a large, wooden table. They were returning that day to their London home via the ferry from St-Malo to Portsmouth, an 8 hour trip. Lovely fresh croissants, baguette slices, homemade apple jelly, rhubarb and apricot jams, coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Miam.

We bid our adieus, at which time I afterward jokingly asked if the French no longer gave kisses. With that, he gave Kim 4, wryly saying in French, “The things we have to do…” As we pulled out of the yard, he did a slapstick routine, running ahead to clear our way. Funny guy, and wonderful welcoming host.

The high tide for today was forecast for 1048 and a height of 13.55m, a rating of 100, which apparently is hot stuff. To observe the tidal surge, arrival is recommended 2 hours previously. Accordingly, as our drive from Juilley was roughly 20 minutes, we pretty well hit our plan to leave by 0850, and were well positioned when we first observed a change around 0920. The complete cycle of the tide is 1 ½ hours. It is very impressive, initially creating what appears to be ripples or mini rapids as it advances over the ground; then later producing similar effects as it meets the current of the river that empties into the Atlantic from its west side. It s difficult to explain the extent of the transformation, but suffice it to say that there is effectively no water cover for a mile from the beach to Mont-St-Michel, and then the gap is filled. Mont-St-Michel, of course, is very beautiful itself.

Due to time constraints, after an hour or so, Gerald, Kim and Mom entered the lower level of the Mont to walk around its steep and ancient streets, reportedly replete with shops. Our host, Monsieur Tison had recommended that a visit to Mont-St-Michel, beyond its tide, be limited to the Abbey; however, this would be one horrendous walk, probably requiring a half day, which we did not have. All converged at our prearranged departure time of 1130, and off we shot again, this time to St-Malo in Bretagne, a drive of about 50 km and 1 hour.

Vehicular and pedestrian traffic at St-Malo’s walled city portion was unbelievably congested, consistent with reports I had read about it, as well as France’s summer break. Accordingly, I deposited the crew at the gate to this walled city, saying that we needed to be leaving, ideally with sandwich in hand by 1330. To enable their maximum time to see St-Malo and retain our Loire Valley château viewing and reasonable hotel arrival, I went off to park the car, and left the camera with Lynda to take pictures. Some had wanted to wait beside an adjacent carousel, but, as I the time to park and return might tae time we didn’t have, I told them to proceed to the wall on the side of the water (which offshore fortress Gerald had spotted as we drove in), where I would look for them.

As it turned out, it took me 15 minutes to find a spot, but at some distance away, which required a brisk 20 minute walk to get up to the wall on the water side. I walked the entire length of the wall, to the statue of Jacques Cartier in the western portion of the wall, then retraced my steps, right its easterly termination. He view from these vantage points is spectacular, with people swimming and sun bathing on sand beaches and lots of water features, such as islands and the previously mentioned fortress. With 1300 approaching, I knew I would have to return for the car, believing they’d know enough to return to the gate at the appointed 1300.

About 15 minutes after that, they showed up to tell me that they’d decided, after all, to wait for me, then left after while to go to a sit down lunch (but not think of bringing anything for me) and not go to the ramparts (no pictures, which I could have taken as a memory of the visit, had I had e camera)… Note to self: internet photo search. Needless to say, not a happy camper, and not much conversation going on as we headed for the Loire.

Our next scheduled stop was the Château d'Ussé in Rigny-Ussé. This required maybe a one-way detour of 45 minutes and west from the natural path that would have run from Tours to our hotel destination in Bléré, principally because Kim had said it was the one castle she wanted to see, and it hadn’t been part of our original schedule. Château d'Ussé was the inspiration for Perrault's legend of The Sleeping Beauty. The complex was erected at the dawn of the Renaissance on a hill overlooking the Indre River. Surrounded by immaculate gardens and with views across the Loire countryside, Ussé is a true 'picture-postcard' castle.

We were on target for a 1645 ETA before I missed an exit off the toll highway, within 10 minutes of our arrival. Had I know the outcome, I would have backed up; however, to find the next crossing bridge, we lost about 25 minutes; however, the drive from there to Rigny-Ussé was along the Loire, and very pretty. Still peeved from the St-Malo inconsideration/stupidity, I dumped the gang at the gate and agreed to pick them up at their requested 1800, after I had lunch. I went to a local store, had them prepare a nice ham and gruyère baguette, complemented by one of those yogurt drinks. I then went in to a wine store, just before the entrance to the château - Vouvray wine at 6 €, reportedly the same price at that charged by the producer. Although maybe not a comparable producer, I had bought Vouvray for 11 €, I think, in Paris. Morale of the story: if you’re buying wine and are near Rigny-Ussé, considering postponing purchases until there. Its proprietor also spoke knowledgably about Vouvray and another local favourite, Sancerres, and gave me a good sized sample. (A local later told me that Chinon is the same “sepage” as Vouvray.)

With about 20 minutes before pick up time, I went to a café typesetting across the street from the entrance to the château, and order a nice white wine to relax while waiting. After some time, don’t I notice that, at the table immediately beside me, are Kim and Mom - didn’t go to the Château. It doesn’t get any better. Lynda and Gerald return and Gerald joins my table. He goes to order a drink, I finish my glass, go to the washroom, and return to find my chair and Gerald gone…

We next travelled to the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau. We had intended to only take photos of its well photographed exterior. Its interior was said to be not that interesting and, while its gardens are recommended, we had the world class gardens of Château Villandrey on our agenda. Unfortunately, they are too clever for us, as paid entrance to the grounds is required to see the moat which surrounds the Château and makes for the striking photo. The small bridge which crosses, however, is quite nice, and had a number of decks dining on its weir. Note to self: internet photo search.

We arrived at Le Cheval Blanc - about a 30 minute shot - from Azay-le-Rideau - just before 8:00. It’s a beautiful setting, with a strong reputation for its dining and a 3-star to boot - pricey meals, though, but it has a large number of tables, indoor and out, and beautifully set and surrounded by flowers. It is owned by Hélène and Fabrice Tavernier. He’s the chef, while she handles the front of the house.

We may have gotten euchred on our rooms, in that Gerald took the triple for Mom, which turns out to be a relatively spacious and beautiful room, while Lynda and I got a normal room; however, a call from Lindsay later went, not to our room, but the other…

That evening, Lynda and I went to Amboise, about 10 km away. Blois, reportedly the more “interesting” by Mme Tavernier, at 100 km distant, was not an option for hungry people at 2130. Fortunately for us, this was the sole evening of the week that has a market that also includes crafts, and it was still going at 2300. Among the latter were some very creative ceramic works and frames; however, we first sought out food, moving along a crowded central artery by foot until we came to a square with what may have been the château in the background. We found a nice tea shop, where we had very nice omelettes, a fruit drink with a scoop of ice cream in huge stem wear, fabulously hot and flavourful tea, and a mille feuilles and custard based pastry. We took a pic of our server, whom I believe was the daughter of the owner who offered the latter dessert suggestion and husband, who served our meal at our outdoor table with its colourful table cloth. The mother had been born upstairs, and was the grand-daughter of its founder.

Returning to Bléré around 2330, we encountered our usual problem without a street address recognized by our GPS - we couldn’t see the church against which the hotel was located. After several iterations going around, we finally found ourselves with a vehicle behind. After finding a location where our vehicle blocked forward access, I exited and walked to the car. In French, he said, Don’t tell me - you’re lost!” He then gave what were straight forward directions to him, but fraught with danger to me Again in French, he said, “I can assure you that you’ll have no trouble in finding it.” With that, I put my hand in my pocket and replied, “Do you want to put some money on it?” With that, he said, “Follow me.” And he quickly took us to our destination, and we waved each other good evening. Life is good in the Loire.