Rouen Vieux-Marché, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen, Fécamp, Étretat, Trouville-sur-Mer and Deauville, Caen

August 3

As usual, we had a busy day planned, but with the luxury of a 1000 start time, beginning with the Rouen cathedral and then driving along the Normandy coast from Fécamp to our hotel in Caen. We had elected to have breakfast in the hotel, which has a charming set of tables in its lobby. There, we met its owners for the first time, Marie et Hervé. She is an artist, with a 5-year post-secondary degree in Beaux Arts. Her art is throughout the hotel, available for sale, and all without a giveaway sameness of style – must be nice to have talent. They’re a very droll couple. As we were leaving, she was observing his fascination and single-minded focus on learning how to reset his email replies to the top of the message, instead of the bottom, which had been his practice - very confusing when the same message goes back and forth. Anyway, she asked me what is “contraire” to a woman, standing, in the kitchen, working. She answered, a man, sitting on the couch, watching TV, with his remote control. Gerald and I didn’t quite understand what she was trying to say. She told me at the time that he would be focused on this challenge the entire morning until he succeeded. When we returned after seeing the cathedral, he had indeed solved the problem, and she and I agreed that it is a good thing for managers when they can anticipate the actions of those they manage.

Our breakfast consisted of croissants, baguettes, homemade jam, yogurt and coffee, tea and chocolate (latter looked pretty yummy), all served at the table by Madame Dorin. While there, as I was taking a photo of Mme Dorin, the husband of a Dutch couple in the frame later clowned with a smile, so I obliged with a photo of the two, which I’ll be sending them.

Rouen, the capital of Upper Normandy, is one of France's most ancient and historic cities. Standing on the site of Roman Rotomagus, the lowest point on the river then capable of being bridged, it was laid out by the Viking Rollo shortly after he became Duke of Normandy in 911. Captured by the English in 1419, it was the stage in 1431 for the trial and execution of Joan of Arc, and returned to French control in 1449.

Over the centuries, Rouen has suffered repeated devastation; there were 45 major fires in the first half of the thirteenth century alone. It has had to be almost entirely rebuilt during the last sixty years, and now you could spend a whole day wandering around the city without realizing that the Seine ran through its centre. Wartime bombs destroyed all its bridges, the area between the cathedral and the quais, and much of the industrial quarter. The riverside area has never been adequately restored, and what you might expect to be the most beautiful part of the city is in fact something of an abomination.

Rouen was a regional capital during Roman times and France's second largest city in the Middle Ages. Rouen's wealth and power was based primarily on its wool industry and favourable position as the lowest point on the Seine that could be crossed by bridge. In the 9th century, the Normans made Rouen their capital. Rouen is the capital of Normandy and the fifth-largest port in France, a city of half a million people. Victor Hugo called Rouen "the city of a hundred spires." Half of it was destroyed during World War II, mostly by Allied bombers in April 1944, and many Rouennais were killed. While the industrial suburbs were devastated, most of the historic area fortunately survived intact. Today, Rouen is Europe's biggest food exporter (mainly wheat and grain), and a popular tourist destination. William the Conqueror made it his home before moving to England and died here in 1087, and Joan of Arc was burned at the stake on place du Vieux-Marché in 1431.

We’ve seen so many cathedrals and their soaring and absolutely riveting architecture that I’ve had to resort to notes and photos to refresh my memory. If memory serves me, a church service was in progress. Displaying tremendous ingenuity, the girls resorted to a tried and true method of window shopping among the various interesting streets that surrounded the cathedral, including an open market in the square that morning.

To the west of the cathedral, we followed the Rue du Gros Horloge through a shopping area to the Gros Horloge, a delightful clock tower with an impressive clock. Just across the intersection with rue Jeanne-d'Arc, you come to the Gros Horloge itself. A colourful one-handed clock, it used to be on the adjacent Gothic belfry until it was moved down by popular demand in 1529, so that people could see it better.

We continued along Rue du Gros Horologe to Place du Vieux Marché, where there was an open air market of every imaginable fresh food product, including beautiful flowers. Beside the Place du Vieux Marché is a modern church, Église Sainte-Jeanne D’Arc, beside which is a small plaque and a huge cross (nearly 20m high) that marks the spot on which Joan of Arc was burned to death on May 30, 1431. The stained glass windows in the church are, as usual, very beautiful.

While we were there, an Italian couple had their infant son on a mini horse carousel. I took some good pics, which I’ll be sending them.

We exited from the square towards the cathedral, using the Rue Rollon exit from the square for a quick look at the Palais de Justice, a building with interesting architecture, constructed during the late Middle Ages. Numerous bullet holes pock the building’s surface, and chunks of facing materials that were blasted out during the battle for the city following the D-Day Invasion have not been repaired.

We then toured the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame. It remains at heart the Gothic masterpiece that was built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The west facade of the cathedral, intricately sculpted like the rest of the exterior, was Monet's subject for over thirty studies of changing light in the 19th century, which now hang in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen was consecrated in 1063 and rebuilt after a fire in 1200. A textbook example of French Gothic architecture, it was severely damaged during a bombardment in 1944 (and still in restoration). The interior of the cathedral features some outstanding stained glass. If I live long enough, I may get to update this blog from among the 4,000 pics I have of this trip. In the meantime, the best value I can presently offer in terms of pics is to direct you to this link for the cathedral in Rouen (where you’ll note other sites):

http://www.galenfrysinger.com/france_rouen_cathedral.htm

Two towers distinguish it: Tour de Beurre was financed by the faithful who were willing to pay for the privilege of eating butter during Lent. Containing a carillon of 56 bells, the Tour Lanterne (Lantern Tower) - built in 1877 and utilizing 740 tons of iron and bronze - rises to almost 492 ft.

The choir is a masterpiece, with 14 soaring pillars. The Booksellers' Stairway, in the north wing of the transept, is adorned with a stained-glass rose window that dates, in part, from the 1500s. The 13th-century chancel is beautiful, with simple lines. Especially interesting is the Chapelle de la Vierge, adorned with Renaissance tombs of the cardinals d'Amboise. Also entombed is the heart of Richard the Lion-Hearted, a token of his affection for the people of Rouen.

The ambulatory and crypt hold the assorted tombs of various royalty, stretching back as far as Duke Rollo, 1st Duke of Normandy, who died in 933. Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom is the current Duke of Normandy. Big surprise, Rollo “The Dane” Ragnvaldsson, (846 in Maer-Trondelag, Norway – 927 Rouen) is Lynda’s ancestor and the great great great grandfather of William Beauclerc “The Conqueror” (also known “The Bastard) (1028 - 9 September 1087). His mother, Herleva, was the daughter of a wealthy merchant from Falaise, but they never married. It is William who claimed the English crown as William I, King of England, invading England in 1066, and leading an army of Normans to victory over the Anglo-Saxon forces of Harold Godwinson (who died in the conflict) at the Battle of Hastings.

His reign, which brought Norman culture to England, had an enormous impact on the subsequent course of England in the Middle Ages. In addition to political changes, his reign also saw changes to English law, a programme of building and fortification, changes to the vocabulary of the English language, and the introduction of continental European feudalism into England.

In addition, it features a tomb containing the heart of Richard I, Richard the Lionhearted (September 8, 1157 - April 6, 1199) King of England from July 6, 1189 until his death and son of Plantagenet King Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine (movie with Catharine Hepburn and Peter O’Toole). He also ruled as Duke of Normandy, Duke of Aquitaine, Duke of Gascony, Lord of Ireland, Lord of Cyprus, Count of Anjou, Count of Nantes and Overlord of Brittany at various times during the same period. He was known as Richard the Lionhearted, or Cœur de Lion, even before his accession, because of his reputation as a great military leader and warrior. Eleanor is buried in Fontevrault Abbey, Maine-et-Loire, near where we are staying this trip.

Lynda is descended from Richard’s younger brother, John 1166 - 1216, who succeeded Richard and reigned from 6 April 1199, until his death. As a historical figure, John is best known for signing Magna Carta, a document that limited his power and that is popularly regarded as an early first step in the evolution of modern democracy. He has often appeared in historical fiction, particularly as an enemy of Robin Hood.

Behind the cathedral is the Palais de l'Archevêché (Archbishop's Palace), which was bombed in the war. Now it stands naked against the sky. The broken arches and rosette windows witnessed the trial of Joan of Arc in 1431, and her rehabilitation was proclaimed here in 1456.

We got away from Rouen later than planned, around 1200, on our way to Fécamp, about an hour away and located on the Normandy coast. Along the way, we drove through some lovely villages and their flower-bedecked houses and squares. I don’t know if I’ll be able to ultimately ID them. Without a precise GPS address or signs to assist is, we had our usual unplanned tour of the town and its 1-way roads, but we eventually arrived at our intended destination...

At the Place des Ducs Richard lie the ruins of the castle built by the dukes of Normandy between the 10th and the 11th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th century by the first of the Plantagenets, Henry II, and was the favourite residence of Richard I and Richard II, whose wishes were to be buried in the adjacent abbey and where their tombstones can be seen. It is at this palace in 1035, before embarking for the Holy Land, that Robert I “The Magnificent”, presented his 7-year old illegitimate son and heir, William, later “The Conqueror”, to the bishops and barons, who swore allegiance to the young boy; and where William came to celebrate Easter in April, 1067, after his victory. It is from Fécamp on the Normandy coast that William The Conqueror attacked England in 1066.

Across the street is the surprisingly large and very pretty Abbatiale de la Sainte-Trinité. It was built between 1175 and 1220 by Richard the Lionheart, and was the most important place of pilgrimage before the construction of Le Mont Saint-Michel. According to legend, the trunk of a fig tree carrying the Precious Blood of Christ collected by Joseph of Arimathea was washed ashore on the riverbank at Fécamp in the 1st century. In the exact point in which the trunk touched earth, a fountain of Holy Blood gushed out, and the monks of the abbey took it under their custody. The relic quickly attracted many pilgrims, enhancing the reputation of the city. The name “Fécamp” is possibly derived from this legend: Fici-campus, the camp of the fig tree. The castle was the birthplace of many Norman dukes, including Richard I of Normandy (born 933) and son, Richard II of Normandy (who died 22 August 1027). Richard I’s grandfather was Rollo, and are Lynda’s ancestral line.

Fécamp is the home of the Benedictine liquor which is still made there. There are several large German bunker complexes in the cliffs. We saw neither. The main attraction of Fécamp is the wonderful cliffs that you can see from the beach, the highest cliffs in Normandy (110 m tall).

We next headed to Étretat, just 7 km distant on the coast, a pretty town, awash in tourists. As we were running well past our intended lunch time, we stopped for a 3:00 lunch at a restaurant near the beach, La Belle Epoque, at 2 Blvd. President Rene Coty, at rue Notre Dame and rue Monge. Its advertised specialty was clams, which is what Kim had, and very pleased with her choice. Lynda and Mom each had a mushroom and ham omelette. Mom had chocolate ice cream for dessert. I had tarte a la Normandie. Balance kinda a blur without pics of same or taking notes. We had a very pretty young waitress, whom we immortalized in a pic and who plans to study geography at one of the universities in Quebec next year.

Having refuelled, we went out on the boardwalk to see the beach bookmarked by 2 cliffs with eroded holes through each - much like the famous Percé Rock of Gaspé, except much more impressive - it’s a very famous photo op. On the northerly side, there was also the opportunity for a photo op, provided one takes the long, windy path climb up the hill to the church atop it.

As we prepared to leave, as was the case in Montmartre and beside Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, we purchased several prints with scenes associated with the area for 2 € each.

As we fired up the car, the GPS screen went blank, repeating my earlier episode. Upon reading the manual, we discovered that, when the satellite signal is lost, it takes 15 minutes once contact has been made again before the display will show. Can’t live without my GPS with all these narrow streets and 1-ways, particularly if a larger place with less ability for eyeball orientation.

Our next stop as we made our way to Caen was Honfleur, a notable destination for photos of its picturesque harbour and surrounding area. I had originally planned a seafood lunch, as it’s also a noted destination, even if recommended to get off the harbour if you wish to avoid the price inflation. Very shortly after our arrival, we had an extended deluge of Bilblical proportions - a veritable torrential downpour. Upon its conclusion, the pedestrian rats evacuated the dining and shopping areas. It’s very unfortunate that we hadn’t arrived when the weather was better, as the adjacent streets also appeared to be very interesting. We have had fabulous weather - even if very hot and uncomfortable at times - but always without rain until now. Note to self: go to the web for pics.

With the relatively unpleasant weather and time marching on, we gave quick lip service to driving through the adjacent towns of increasingly ritzy Trouville-sur-Mer and Deauville, each with its own casino. Trouville is also a pretty little place. At the bridge which joins them across the Touques river, whose depth changes with the rising and falling tides, we got out to take some photos. At Deauville, we drove along its beach, with its significantly large residential ocean waterfront properties and casino whose appearance reminded me of that at Monte Carlo. Further in town, we stopped at a circle to photograph a fountain whose jets would change water column height every few minutes.

It must have been a little before 2100 when we rolled into Caen and our Hotel de la Fontaine, where we met its young proprietors, Helene & Philippe, who live together and have had the hotel for the past 4 or 7 years, I think. They’re very eager to accommodate, each with nice personalities. It has a lovely, breakfast area, overlooking the street from the 1st story and balcony flower boxes. Whether personal beliefs or just a view to it being good business, the dining area had several models of equipment from WW II, a good orientation for our day to follow. They are in a good location, surrounded by a large area of shops and restaurants.

This was one of the evenings when restaurants characteristically take the night off. With the hours marching on, and it continuing to rain hard from time to time - biblical proportions again, we quickly located something in the area - Café des Tourists - which, however, wasn’t a tourist trap but, rather, appeared to be a bistro favoured by the locals, particularly the younger set. Among us we had onion soup, steak & frites, and camembert. Miam.