Épernay to Reims

August 1, 2008

We were all over tired from our brief stay in Paris, but sorry to leave it with so much more to see, although we have an abundance of good memories.

I left the apartment at 0800 to pick up the Auto Europe (National) car rental upon its 0830 opening. It is conveniently located for us, conveniently at 78 rue du Rocher. I had reserved a Peogeot 407 or equal for a princely sum, hoping that it would handle 5 adults, as advertised, and related luggage. I was still battling fatigue, having been up very late in bringing the blog up to date before all was forgotten or the task became insurmountable. Accordingly, I hadn’t prepared for next day, and was in a mad panic after waking and trying to organize and pack before running out of time.

I somehow got on the wrong subway line than that I sought, but quickly recovered, and was on time for the rental pick up. I was delighted to learn that we were receiving a brand new Citroen C6/VS, a diesel automatic, instead of the expected gas standard. Most importantly, in hindsight, was the included and incredibly useful GPS.

Jacques had arrived as prearranged to see us off and return our damage deposit. I made it down to our apartment with no problem until I saw that the entire opening from the street into our courtyard was blocked with several large garbage bins for pick up, so I had to park in this (one-way) street. Instead of parking on the left side of the street, I double parked it along the right side, thereby exposing me to a stream of insults from subsequent drivers as they tried to navigate through. Compounding matters, we were initially challenged in trying to learn how to open the trunk, and it took some driving time later and manual reading before we were able to locate the 3^rd seatbelt in the rear and where it had been secreted.

With Gerald riding as shotgun, we had some initial stumbles in learning how to set up and view the GPS, but it proved itself invaluable throughout the entire day. I just can’t imagine the anguish, had we not had it. The Citroen is a beautiful looking and riding vehicle. A good omen.

Our destination was Épernay, sleeping over in Reims. Épernay is at the heart of the world's most prestigious vineyards - 20,000 hectares of vineyards stretch all around you, above 200 million bottles of champagne ageing in 120 kilometres of cellars carved out of the chalk soil. The most famous champagne producers among the many grand houses and mansions lining the Avenue de Champagne allow Épernay to lay claim to the coveted title of the Capital of Champagne.

We arrived at Moet & Chandon (20 avenue de Champagne, Épernay) a few minutes before our 1045 appointment for a tour of its champagne cellars. M&C is also the owner of Dom Perignon, with its independent team of producer personnel. The tour was quite interesting and informative. We were walked through its cellars, as the process was described from start to end. Among other things, M&C has a global champagne market share of 10%, a cellar that contains 100 million bottles, and annual sales of 35 million bottles. At its conclusion, our tour price of 13 € each included a flute of its Imperial Brut.

Because many businesses are closed for a lengthy period over the lunch hour, there was every motivation to take advantage of the downtime over lunch. For lunch, we headed to pretty little and nearby Hautvillers, just north of Épernay. Hautvillers was founded in 658 and is known as the cradle of Champagne. This pretty little hill town, like many French houses, is distinctive by virtue of colourful floral displays, including window boxes. As cellarmaster at the Abbey of Hautvillers, Dom Perignon has been attributed with developing what is known today as Champagne.

The restaurant in Hautvillers is just down the street from the church. It has a lot of character, and its proprietors are typically professional. When it was explained that Mom needed foods with moisture and absent spice, they modified her ordered sole to prepare it with a butter sauce, complemented with mashed potatoes and spinach that she raved about. I also had the sole, which was flavourful and moist - the French know ho to cook fish. Our remaining group had the fixed price plat of coq au vin and melon - each very good.

Our planned our next scheduled stop was value-priced quality producer, JM Gobillard (CHAMPAGNE-GOBILLARD@wanadoo.fr), which has received several rave reviews about low pricing for a quality product. Shortly after its reopening at 1430 after lunch, we paid a call. A tasting, unlike some others, bears a price of 5 €. I bought a couple of bottles for 13 € each. The proprietor is the wife of the 3^rd generation that founded Gobillard. She said that starting a vineyard today is impossibly expensive, citing the fact that it takes 40 years before vines produce quality. We cleared Gobillard around 1530, within 15 minutes of schedule.

As the gals passed out in the back seat, rousing themselves periodically, Gerald and I made our way through the surrounding countryside comprised of Cramant, Avize, Oger, Mersil-sur-Oger Vertus, Mareuil-sur-Ay, Ay, Ludes, and Verzy. We took several pictures of the pretty countryside. Oger stands out as being particularly pretty. By the time we’d completed this circuit and returned to Épernay’s avenue de Champagne, it was 1750, leaving a 30 minute drive to the Reims suburb of Saint-Brice-Courcelles, where we were sleeping over.

The proprietors of the hotel, M et Mme Perotin, greeted us warmly, and have been very helpful. Within walking distance to Arcantis l’Hotel is a huge retailer and mall of independent retailers. Within it is a lovely modern café that offers fresh and beautifully prepared foods. Lynda and I opted for a julienne type salad, dessert (2 for me because of the crème brulee conflict) and 2 tea for 18 €), while the others opted for a meal sourced from the huge retailer’s supermarket section.

I was pleased to see that I could still access the web for emails and Scott’s improvement in playing chess with me - he just made a move which will cost me an undisputed knight and could give me big trouble.