Mar 18, 2009 - Isla Mujeres

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Today was the day we set aside to visit Isla Mujeres. About 13 kilometres northeast of Cancún, the island is some 7 kilometres long and 650 metres wide. On the east is the Caribbean Sea, with a strong surf and rocky coast, and, on the west, the skyline of Cancún is seen across the clear waters. On the north end is Isla Town and Hidalgo Street, where many shops and restaurants are located, and the population concentration. Also located on the north end is a famous beach called Playa del Norte.

Isla Mujeres is located close to one of many coral reefs, and the area is popular for its snorkelling and scuba diving. Punta Sur, the southern tip, has panoramic vistas of surf against 20 m cliffs and the Temple of Ix Chel. A ½ km to its north, on the west shore is Garrafón Natural Park, named after a unique reef with shallow waters and soft currents that allow viewing Caribbean underwater life. The park is famous for its colorful fish that swim around you and for the coral reef that surrounds it. You can snorkel, admire the corals, sunbathe, visit the aquarium, enjoy seafood or fast food, buy handicrafts, folk and beach wear.

http://www.garrafon.com/

Another 1 km north on the Cancún (W) side is a turtle farm. Because of the recent endangerment of sea turtles in the area, a facility was set up for their rehabilitation and breeding. This facility is open to the public.

Isla Mujeres, "Island of Women", was named by the Spanish upon their arrival in the 16th century, when they found a great many carved images of women on the island. These carvings were the product of the Mayan worship of the goddess Ix Chel. In Pre-Columbian times, the island was sacred to the Mayan moon goddess, Ix Chel. The Mayans built a temple to the goddess at the South-eastern most tip of the island and, within this temple, they incorporated an observatory. This is the most easterly point in Mexico, and one of the reasons it was so important to the Mayans. Ix Chel was the Mayan Goddess of the Moon and childbirth and was closely associated with the sophisticated Mayan astronomical readings taken here and elsewhere. The remnants of this temple are still there. Unfortunately the temple ruins were severely damaged by Hurricane Gilbert in 1988. It has been partially restored.

We caught the 1st ferry of the day to Isla Mujeres from Playa Tortuga, about a 10 minute slow walk in the direction of the hotel zone - US$15 return each - leaving at 0900, last return 1730. One of the options is to connect with the ferry from Puerto Juarez, which is a touch North of the city of Cancún; however, to take advantage of the savings from its ferry rate, which may be $9 each, you have to travel by bus - possibly with a connecting line - which just wasn’t worth the effort. The 2-decker runs at a pretty fair clip and smoothly, covering the 14 km that separates the island from Cancún in 20-25 minutes. The turquoise-coloured water is a reflection of the sun off a white sandy bottom, punctuated on occasion by darker patches where vegetation has taken hold.

Immediately upon disembarking, we signed up for a day’s use of a gas golf cart rental - US$45. For some reason, I had expected $15. Maybe some were available at the rate from other, less immediately visible, outlets.

The ferry dock is located on the west side of the island, Cancún side. Its beach, Playa Norte, is famous in the area. With our cart, we began by running the entire 8 km length of the island on its south side to its southernmost tip, the Punta Sur. For 300 pesos (C$3) each, we gained entry to a walking trip on its tip. While it contains the ruins of the small Mayan temple of Ix Chel, its more memorable aspects are the walkways that run from its tip on its east face and along its west face. The views are spectacular, and increasingly so with high surf. It starts from elevated cliffs, the highest on the island, and the point is the easternmost point of Mexico. In earlier times, this “Island of Women” was the worshipping place for people offering masks to promote their desires for prosperity. There were also several iguanas of varying sizes.

From there, we retraced our steps, possibly a half mile to Garrafón Natural Park. It is known for its reef and associated marine life, but we had been told that its views were worth the visit. It turns out that admission was only for a huge package, which included a meal, all for the princely sum of US$59 each. It occurred to me that they might benefit from a business opinion about the value of getting something less than the whole hog revenue.

Back on the cart, we retraced our road to the tip and followed its turn along the east side of the island, toward the North of the island. Again, the views of the coast and breaking surf and azure colours are simply spectacular. Maybe 1 km down, we found the “seashell house” designed in the shape of a seashell. I had thought there was also a painting in which bodies were “hidden” in the portrait; however, it turns out that the artist who painted the picture built the house.

We then ran the entire length on the north side to reach the end and Punta Norte. We fortunately had an American from Minnesota come by to suggest a reasonable place to have lunch, while also recommending a beach to visit. He said he got down a couple of times a year to a home he owned on the west side of the airport, toward its north end. I wish I could remember the name of the place we ate.

http://www.isla-mujeres.net/maps/centroprint.htm

To reach it, you travel along the westernmost road (Rueda Medina) toward Playa Norte, head east at Jax bar (on Lopez Mateos), and turn right (east) at the Post Office (SE corner) on your 3rd street (Guerrero). Beside the post office are 4 covered outdoor shops with all sorts of central parking. The one closest to the street was recommended and has 2 names (like Isabella & Guillermo). We each had garlic shrimp, which included rice, beans and a small salad. I tried the “Sol” beer for the 1s time, recommended by the hotel pool barman the other day - good!

We left the cart there (and, unintentionally, my panama hat, which was there upon our return). We proceeded to Hidalgo Street, the main restaurant and shopping district, running NS between Abasolo and Morelos (but also 1-2 blocks to its south for more shops). We stopped into a couple of jewellery and other shops and concluded that it was likely what should have been highly favoured over Mercado 28, absent the high pressure, aggressive vendors and the concern about being taken by vendors wrt price vs. quality.

One such was a vendor, Noé (store Noe´s), located on the NW corner of Hidalgo and Morelos. He comes from a family of jewellers from Tasco, which is renowned for its silver mines and metal work. He had quality pieces - while prices may not be bargains, at least it would be because he hasn’t cut corners on quality without your knowledge.

We then returned to our cart on Guerrero, retraced our path N to the Post Office, turning 1st right (E) on to Lopez Mateos, then 1st left (Carlos Lazo) and 1st right (Zazil-Ha, last street on N end), running right to the end to the Playa del Secreto, which had been recommended by the American.

Along the way, a young French babe waved us down to ask for a lift, so we were able to gain access to the Avalon Reef Club where she was staying, located at the end of a wooden bridge connecting the 2 islands. Hers was a 2-week stay. We stayed only long enough for me to take some pics and walk the beach barefoot. While there, a couple of carts with “lit” occupants, entered the wooden bridge. I obliged in taking their pics and obtaining an email address for forwarding. Certainly a very nice area, connected to the sheltered Playa Norte, which wraps the island’s west end and its northern edge - fine, white, powdery sand along an expansive area, reminiscent of Clearwater Beach.

On the recommendation of a nearby hotel desk clerk, it was suggested that we go to Jax (mentioned and located earlier) for the sangria that was on our mind.

http://jax.islamujeres.info/

There we met a retired accountant from Minneapolis, who spends 6 months continuously in what is described as a nice place for US$35 daily. As jewellers, she recommended Roberto’s, illustrating a small solid gold turtle around her neck that she had purchased for $40. Joining us as were a couple from St. Louis. After we made a quick walk of the North Beach, we returned to take a pic of them and arrange for email sending.

We caught the 1630 return ferry, cleaned up and went for a couple of drinks before supper. The hotel lobby entertainment that evening was a fellow playing a couple of sax and a clarinet. Lots of familiar tunes from the ‘60s thru ‘80s.

The hotel had a number of craft vendors that evening. Included was a young fellow with Mayan masks. I had asked asked Jorge for pricing on a size that had been offered for US$15 at Mercado 28. He explained to me the differences between the solid stone and shell vs. those that are achieved with paint on the inside. In the 1 size, his asking price is US$70, he tries to get $60, but sometimes sells for $45. His material cost is $25. The labour is 32 hours (@$0.60/hr!). He sells maybe 5-8 masks per showing. I’m going to see if I can arrange a freebie website production and some ideas, as he (also) comes from a family of Tasco jewellers, so could well be able to offer relatively unique, quality products at attractive prices and improved volumes and profit margins.